Misery likes company, so I had to find some

The last 5 days have really put me to the test, physically & mentally. I hesitate to say it pushed me to the edge, as I am sure there are more tougher times yet to come and then I would be over the edge. Not a good place to be. Rain, snakes, dogs, rain, mosquitos, wind, rain, no brake pads, mountains, unexpected passes, rain, complete loss of feeling in left hand, wind and more rain. There were some of course some redeeming moments, moments with people who saved me in one way or another.

Leaving Aman Sveti Stefan was very hard indeed. I prolonged my stay until 1400 to indulge in one more meal; pizza and a hefty slice of chocolate cake, dubbed ‘Nemesis’. Unfortunately it was then time to leave with my stomach content and the sun on my back. Little did I know that that would be the last I would see of the sun for 6 days now. My legs took me to Stari Bar (old town of Bar that was demolished by earthquake) where a car was honking furiously at me so I waved him passed. Turned out it was the 2 cyclists I met in Dubrovnik who had met a couple from Munich in this little town. They invited me for coffee & cake (and a beer, cheese & cold meats), of course I said yes and put off entering Albania until the next day. After over an hour of their generous hospitality I left to find a suitable place to camp out of town. The ride up and out of Bar was glorious, with the sun setting and people pottering around the countryside. It was the first proper country lane I had been on in a while. I found a cosy little corner off a field and set up camp not needing dinner after my late afternoon snack. That night I waged war on 3 fronts. The battle was against a mosquito that had infiltrated my tent. The little bastard had no qualms about making his presence heard but he dared not show his face, the coward! I pretended to not care and continue reading ‘Mysterious Island’ by Jules Verne, but the buzzing persisted. We have all been in this scenario, but in a small 1 man tent this duel is more intense. Eventually I splatted him against the yellow inner liner of the tent leaving an unpleasant red stain, but I was satisfied. Shortly afterwards 4 large dogs surrounded my tent and did not sound best pleased about me being there. They were getting closer and closer, and I felt quite cornered. I tried to wait them out, which did not work. I tried barking ferociously myself, this seemed to incense them more, nice one Mark. I then put on my clothes with Leatherman & knife at the ready and leapt out screaming & yelling and generally making myself big. I had no intention of using my weapons but they made me feel safer. This seemed to work and they scampered off. Mark 2 – Wild 0. The third battle was one I could not win. It began to rain around 0430 and did not stop for the next 60 hours AT ALL and up until now it has been raining on & off, mainly on.

Packed up kit with the first peddle at 0910 and my kit was soaking, and has been up until now. My goal that day was to reach Durres, Albania, 134km away. Quite the task in the rain and a stop off to see Lake Shkoder. The terrible weather did not do the lake justice. The next 7 hours were spent plodding along the road getting wetter & colder. There was no point in stopping otherwise you just get even colder. It’s best to keep moving until it’s time to make camp and go to sleep. The clouds were so dark and rain so heavy that vision became an issue, not to mention the filthy spray coming off the passing trucks with some stretches of road having 2 lanes and no hard shoulder. Although it must be said that the Albanian drivers always gave me enough space when passing me, along with the occasional cheery wave and a look that said “are you mad? / you must be English”. Petrol station staff were always very friendly here bringing me coffee and generally wondering why I was out cycling. The thought had also crossed my mind, believe me. I was being kept amused by constantly seeing signs that said ‘Shitet’ (meaning for sale). I found an average place to camp that night behind a petrol station called Kastrati, classic. After setting everything up, I popped into the bar for a coffee and met 4 Albanians who were so friendly and cheered me up no end! Beers were had and stories were swapped. They brought a smile to my face after a shite day.

The next day was much the same with weather, but now some mountains were thrown into the mixer. I remember playing rugby tournaments when I was younger and being wet, cold & filthy for hours on end but always safe in the knowledge that a warm shower and afternoon tea awaited me. I had now been in the rain for the duration of 4 rugby tournaments and there was no warm shower or afternoon tea in sight. This was a shame as the road from Elbasan to Librazhd would have been lovely without rain, cruising up the valley surrounded by lush green mountains. Instead the filthy river began overflowing onto the road, nice. I told myself that if I kept cycling I would get through this wicked storm, on what basis I don’t know but I had to believe in it. I was of course wrong. That day kindness was shown my many policemen with directions and a lady who gave me 1kg of cherries, they were delicious! Today was the first day I asked myself “why am I doing this”, a dangerous thing to ask yourself when the conditions are against you. I quickly banished that thought from my mind and thought of chocolate instead. I peddled on beyond drenched with hands losing feeling.

16th May was a right stinker until the end. Started off ok with 5 pain au chocolate and no rain. Leaving Librazhd was a steady incline to Perrenjus. En route I saw 3 very large teddy bears hanging by their necks from abandoned houses, I saw this as a bad omen and a rather sorry sight. Reaching Perrenjus I saw ahead of me the giant climb that would take me into Macedonia. I was at least expecting this so it did not seem so bad. The climb took me 70 mins all in first gear. I actually rather enjoyed it as it was only raining mildly and my legs felt OK. Upon reaching Macedonia at 1400 I was starving so I treated myself to a giant lunch overlooking Lake Ohrid and the rain gave me relief over lunch, as if it was waiting for me to begin cycling again. It did wait, and it did come post lunch. I left Ohrid (650m above sea level) at 1600 began towards Resen & Bitola, my map had not warned me of any danger passes coming up. At 1615 I started climbing and settled into first gear, the valley was stunning! I could only ever see 150/200 yds ahead as the road kept winding left & right. Driver’s coming the other way were smiling and giving me the thumbs up which I thought a bit strange, but I continued blissfully unaware. After 40 mins, still in 1st gear and the drizzle still battering my spirits (now well into my 9th back-to-back rugby tournament) my mood started to swing dramatically. I had no idea how long this blasted incline would last as there were no towns/stops en route at all, and each blind corner was met with another 150 yd stretch of road leading up the hill. It was now 1720 and still nothing! I normally look out for the electricity pilons falling away, a weather station or abroad sign signalling 2 lanes converging into 1 to indicate the peak. None of these could be seen. I can not dream of writing the profanities that came out of my mouth and the thoughts in my head as they were pure evil. I was screaming, but at nothing. My mind was fogged over with rage and still no sign at 1750. It wasn’t the steepest but it was unforgiving in length. At 1810 I reached the peak and looked back to see a sign saying 1190m above sea level. It wasn’t so much the height or distance but the unexpectedness of it. I had no preparation or knowledge of this pass. My mind was all over the place and I was nearly in tears. I rested for 10 mins, gathered myself and apologised for my bad thoughts.

I plugged in my iPod to Gotye’s album from track 3, wrapped up warm for the descent and went downhill. Never before have I undergone such a mood change, for within minutes I was punching my fist in the air and dancing as best as possible on a bike overtaking a lorry at 48 km/h. Track 6 came on, ‘I Feel Better’ – (I urge you to listen to this now so you can have some thought of how I was feeling). The timing was priceless and I was singing at the top of my lungs. I exaggerate not, at the exact end of this song 3 stalls selling apples appeared. I stopped at the middle one and said “I would LOVE an apple please” with the biggest smile I could muster. The reply came with an Australian twang and a giant smile in return. I then thought of the lyrics: “A friendly face will bring you around, and you’ll feel better” and I was delirious with joy. We spoke & laughed for over an hour. Darkness was approaching but I didn’t care. They (BG/Robert & Violetta) lived in Melbourne for many years and offered me coffee, biscuits, freshly pressed cherry juice, homemade grape schnapps and as many apples as I wanted on the house. I was brought back to life by the kindest of strangers in the most unlikely of places. I left plugging my iPod back in and listening to track 7, ‘In Your Light’, a song normally reserved for getting me up in the morning. Joy was back in my life and I was on cloud 9.

From that camp I cycled to Edessa, Greece where I decided I would have my first day off the bike for 12 days and dry everything out. Don’t laugh, but I was also in desperate need of moisturising my skin which was cracking up due to constant rain. The cycle to Edessa wasn’t without its trials. Without going into too much detail, it was a very tough 118km. My rear brake pads wore out in the hills and the rain was too much to change them then, so I decided to wait to Edessa. Now with only front brake pads to see me through the hills. Only at 1730 did I notice the clocks went ahead an hour, having been in Greece for 5 hours at this stage. So it was now 1830 and I was 45km from Edessa, great. Somehow didn’t care that much as I knew tomorrow would be a rest day. In the back roads which I cycled along, dogs chased and were nipping at my heals. 1 getting too close for my liking. Quite scary really as you don’t know what they would actually do and I kept thinking of Elspeth telling me about Rabies, not cool. To be fair to them they probably just see to bits of meat in my calves and want a piece of it. I am now armed with stones and long stick for the rest of Greece, I’m not taking any chances. At 2015 I arrived in town and after sorting out all of my kit, I ate lots & lots with some local Greeks. Today has been a day of working on my bike, drying everything out and planning route to Istanbul. As well as some sightseeing & more food in the form of yummy pastries and fig ice-cream.

There are so many more stories that have happened & interesting people I have met on the road, but time only allows for the highlights. Later on when internet becomes more scarce, the highlights will be even tougher to choose. All is being noted down in diary though and a book will be compiled.

Please remember that I am raising money for Breast Cancer Care, so please do donate whatever you can here. Any amount is truly appreciated whether donated now or later along the road!

Mind & body restored back to 100%, 3,408km down, Istanbul here I come….

Love

Pictures: German couple in Stari Bar, Albanian friends in Durres, me & Tony, sneaky 1190m pass, BG & Violetta in Izbista, Greece.